Bonafide Farm

IMG_7451Web2July 10th, 2011

Yesterday my dad and I finished a huge project—the crawlspace pit—a big job that had been lingering in various states since the house was completed two Mays ago. The pit is on the backside of the house between the chimney and the porch. When the house was nearing completion, we weren’t satisfied with the way my contractor proposed to finish its entryway. So we decided to take this job off his list of responsiblities and put it on ours. Where it sat, for more than a year. But now it’s done and here’s how it all went down.

IMG_9436WebMy dad had visions of creating the mother off all pits—big enough to get in and out of relatively easily and that one could pass tools and equipment through (a lot of my house systems are in the crawlspace, including the interior HVAC unit, dehumidifier, and water heaters). The pit would also have to deflect water from the nearby downspout, and keep critters out of the crawlspace.

The unfinished pit shortly after moving in last June. Pretty, huh?

The base of the old air unit, propped up with a 2×4, made a temporary door that sufficed until a snake decided to make his home in the crawlspace and freak me out. And each time it rained, I had a red plunge pool that made a nice habitat for other local wildlife:

IMG_0269Web

Last fall I’d had enough of the animals and Dad and I started the project. We poured a concrete footer underneath the opening, and he framed in and built a rock-solid door. We also poured the floor of the pit, and designed it to have a sunken drainage sump that was big enough to fit a pump into should we still have water collection problems when it was all done. This all was a bit tricky as we were trying to join our new concrete up to the jagged edges left when the builder made a hole in the original house foundation. We had to be meticulous in pouring the patch job that would join the old foundation to the new pit walls.

Dad formed the exterior pit wall last Thanksgiving, and got some of the rebar reinforcement tied into place. And then it got too cold to pour concrete, and the pit sat like this until last weekend. Man, it was ugly!

IMG_5513Web IMG_5517Web IMG_5556Web IMG_5770Web

Source: bonafidefarm.com

Elixir Industries Elixir Crawlspace Access Door - 32" X 24"
Home Improvement (Elixir Industries)

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Something to work from

From Realtor.org:
"In a style and location appropriate to the style of the house, add a 16-by-25-foot room on a crawl space foundation with wood siding and a fiberglass shingle roof. Include drywall interior with batt insulation, prefinished hardwood floor, and 180 square feet of glass, including windows, atrium-style exterior doors, and two operable skylights. Tie into available heating and cooling. SFO 2002 Average cost: $66K, average return on investment: $73k"
Kind of a shot in the dark, many unknowns - but if you take the above example, figure cost/sq ft ($165), apply it to your sq ft (which is about the same - 20x20= 400 sq ft), then add say 20% and you get $79,200

No. They are incorrect.

Now, this may not be the correct code for Denver, but for these sorts of things the codes are usually similar if not identical.
What the following means is: if the kitchen has adequate natural ventilation, (i.e. a window) the range can have a recirculating hood.
____
IRC 2003
M1502.1 General. Range hoods shall discharge to the out- doors through a single-wall duct. The duct serving the hood shall have a smooth interior surface, shall be air tight and shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Ducts serving range hoods shall not terminate in an attic or crawl space or areas in- side the building

Code does not accept AL

INTERNATIONAL RESIDENTIAL CODE 2003;
SECTION M1502
RANGE HOODS
M1502.1 General. Range hoods shall discharge to the out-
doors through a single-wall duct. The duct serving the hood
shall have a smooth interior surface, shall be air tight and shall
be equipped with a backdraft damper. Ducts serving range
hoods shall not terminate in an attic or crawl space or areas in-
side the building.
Exception: Where installed in accordance with the
manufacturer’s installation instructions, andwheremechan-
ical or natural ventilation is otherwise provided, listed and
labeled ductless range hoods shall not be required to dis-
charge to the outdoors

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How To Build A Crawl Space Door
How To Build A Crawl Space Door
McGraw-Hill Professional Complete Book of Home Inspection 4/E (The Complete Book Series)
eBooks (McGraw-Hill Professional)
Reach Barrier Reach Barrier DD48125 Reflective Air² Insulation
Home Improvement (Reach Barrier)
  • Reflective Air² Insulation retains air longer and provides excellent insulation and sound reduction
  • Insulation is easy to install with no mess or fumes and will not cause itchy skin
  • Ideal for attics, exterior and interior walls, radiant floors, metal and steel buildings, crawl spaces, garage ceilings and many other applications
  • Reflective Air² Insulation meets ASTM standards and complies with Building Code
  • This insulation roll is 125-feet long, 48-inches high and .03-inches thick

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  • Avatar Technojay I am looking to buy a new French Door refrigerator.?
    Dec 03, 2008 by Technojay | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

    Which brand is the best? Which brand should I stay away from??

    • GE has a nice looking new line that functions very well, but get the GE Profile if you can afford it. You may have an authorized GE Scratch & Dent dealer in your area! Call around, because these are where the deals a …(consumer reports, consumer affairs) on this brand's models before you commit to one. Unless you know how to tell who made a kenmore, you may get something made by LG or Frigidaire or who really knows! I hope this helps!