Windows & Doors (on the inside)
You may find too much choice when it comes to selecting an entry door. A single manufacturer may offer up to 50 door designs (although only one or two will likely be “right” for your house). Next, move on to woods (perhaps five to a dozen species, plus custom wood options, all from a single manufacturer). Finally, choose a finish from 40 or more color options and up to a dozen stains. That’s before you’ve considered a selection of sidelights, fanlights, or stained-glass inserts, all of which are available from makers large and small. (Hint: when in doubt, keep it simple.)
The best way to ensure that a new door will coordinate well with existing woodwork is to choose wood of the same species (preferably with the same cut and density), or a wood typical of the region where the house was built. Yesteryear’s Vintage Doors offers doors in more than a dozen species that tend to be place- and period-specific, including both red and white quarter-sawn oak, Eastern white pine, poplar, and Douglas fir. Homeowners with original chestnut paneling or gumwood window casings will probably need to compare and contrast wood species from several makers, then tweak the final finish with half a dozen stain possibilities before they’re ready to place an order.
If your home is architecturally significant or very early, custom work by a company that specializes in period millwork, like Maurer & Shepherd or The Period Door Company, might be the best option. Both can turn out unique styles that are difficult or impossible for manufacturers to make, like batten doors.
Typical choices for interior (or passage) doors include clear grades of pine, knotty alder or knotty pine, Douglas fir, oak, cherry, hemlock, poplar, and mahogany. If you prefer painted passage doors, molded, fireproof doors have never been more affordable, with prices starting at slightly more than $100 per unit. One of the most popular styles, alternately described as “Shaker” or “Craftsman”, is a three-panel “T” door with a strong vertical stile that intersects with a rail at chest height. The door can be dressed up with dentils and glass inserts for exterior use, or stained or painted as an interior passage door.
Source: artsandcraftshomes.com
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Power Locks
You can buy kits, both for power locks and power windows.
I would not recommend the power window ones at all, unless you are willing to do it better than the checker/whitney approach, and customise a bit.
The aftermarket power lock kits "clamp" into the mechanical lock unlock rod that is already in the door, connecting the inside lock/unlock button or toggle.
This is NOT how the factory does it. They have a seperate cam on the LATCH assembly for the solenoid to actuate.
I would see if I could find a deal on a set of OEM power lock Solenoids, after verifying if the latch has the attachment point to hook it up to
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